2" Twiglet Mini 1S 5A 19500KV 27g converted from Meteor65/75

By Sugalime3D FPV on Jan 04, 2023

10  665  6

No guarantee that this build works and is durable and is safe !!!!

Build and main specs:

2" Twiglet Mini 1S 19500 KV D50 2-blade props ESC 5 A. 27,4 g without Lipo. It has an analog cam/VTX.

This is a self-made build. My first quadcopter self-build ever ! (If you don't count my Toothpick conversion of the Happymodel Mobeetle6 tiny whoop which is specially delivered with a carbon frame too so that you can do that...).

It's a tiny whoop to a TOOTHPICK CONVERSION of my BETAFPV Meteor65 Pro ELRS (2022).
This should also work with the parts of the BETAFPV Meteor75 2022 as it has the same motors, FC-ESC and Canopy system !

I use 300 - 450 mAh (7,8 - 12,5 g) 1S Lipos on this Twiglet Mini. One battery charge is approx 2-4 minutes.

Advantages of this toothpick design over the whoop design:

  • Larger props. This may result in better flight behaviour and higher flight energy efficiency.
  • Less air resistance (no prop gards) as a result better flight behaviour.
  • More flexible with batteries that can be used ! The Meteor65 Pro whoop was limited (without mod) to one 1S 300 mAh Lipo and in in a certain form factor.

Disadvantages of this toothpick design over the whoop design:

  • No prop gards and less security for objects close to the drone.
  • 5,3 g (+24%) heavier than the original Meteor65 Pro.

Further explanations of the building design and process:

1) Motor cables:
The motor cables do not have to be attached to the frame in this configuration, as it is not possible for them to get caught in the propeller.

2) Canopy & FC-ESC fixation:
I use 2 of the decorative parts like a knight. Not only because it looks cool/decorative, no, these even fulfil a good function! The visor protects the camera and the horns protect the antenna from strong bending. That's exactly why I consider it the best canopy on the world market ! And together with the Twiglet frame very durable. I had a very violent crash on the first day (flew into a steel post) that left no traces! There is one drawback, however. For the camera and VTX, i thnink currently you are bound to the BETAFPV ecosystem, as other manufacturers may not support the form factors of these...
( By the way, it's really not easy or even impossible to find M2 aluminium screws 8 mm +. Why ? )

3) Soldering:
Soldering is not necessary with this conversion !
But I recommend soldering the camera to the VTX instead of using the tiny connector. This has two advantages. 1) Loose connector contact no longer possible. 2) You can reduce the cable length and therefore also potential interference.

Conversion parts for the Meteor65 Pro tiny whoop to Twiglet Mini toothpick:

  • BETAFPV Twiglet Mini 2" prop carbon fiber frame (diagonal wheelbase ~ 85 mm h&v wheelbase 58-62 mm).
  • Gemfan Hurricane 2015-2 (1 mm shaft) 2 inch props. ( WARNING: I am not sure if the propellers are not possibly over the limit for the motors. It could be that the motors get too hot (in hot weather) and could damage themselves and (with the good heat conduction of the cables) the FC&ESC... 1S motors with 14-17.000KV would probably be more ideal... Or the current-limiting ESC is the bottleneck and the propellers never run up to a speed of 19500KV as a result. Unfortunately, the specs don't have enough information to be able to estimate this well... You would have to test/measure it yourself in the laboratory... or how I do it: the risk of real tests....)
  • 4x M2 nylon 8 mm double-female spacers. (As I didn't have these parts I took 4x M2 nylon nuts in series.)
  • 4x M2 steel (or titanium) 16 mm screws.
  • 3x M2 steel (or titanium) nuts.
  • 1x M2 Nylon nut (Front screw only FC...).
  • Asus republic of gamers pc cable strap (for the battery).
  • Light soft foam pad (I use it not glued to the frame) (between Battery and carbon frame).

All components this Twiglet Mini consists of:

  • BETAFPV Twiglet Mini 2" prop carbon fiber frame (diagonal wheelbase ~ 85 mm h&v wheelbase 58-62 mm).
  • BETAFPV 3-in-1-board (FC&ESC&RX): F4 1S 5A FC (Serial ELRS 2.4G).
  • BETAFPV 0802SE Brushless Motors 19500KV (2022 Version)
  • Gemfan Hurricane 2015-2 (1 mm shaft) 2 inch props. ( WARNING: I am not sure if the propellers are not possibly over the limit for the motors. It could be that the motors get too hot (in hot weather) and could damage themselves and (with the good heat conduction of the cables) the FC&ESC... 1S motors with 14-17.000KV would probably be more ideal... Or the current-limiting ESC is the bottleneck and the propellers never run up to a speed of 19500KV as a result. Unfortunately, the specs don't have enough information to be able to estimate this well... You would have to test/measure it yourself in the laboratory... or how I do it: the risk of real tests....)
  • BETAFPV C03 FPV Camera (Analog).
  • BETAFPV M03 25-350mW VTX (Analog).
  • BETAFPV Canopy for Micro Camera 2022 Version. (Also the M03 VTX can be mounted in it)
  • 4x M2 nylon 8 mm double-female spacers. (As I didn't have these parts I took 4x M2 nylon nuts in series.)
  • 3x M2 steel (or titanium) 16 mm screws.
  • 3x M2 steel (or titanium) nuts.
  • 1x M2 nylon 16 mm screw (for the front, no canopy mount, only FC mount)
  • 1x M2 nylon nut (Front screw only FC mount...).
  • Asus republic of gamers pc cable strap (for the battery).
  • Light soft foam pad (I use it not glued to the frame) (between Battery and carbon frame).

Criticism of this drone product BETAFPV Meteor65 Pro (the right of freedom of expression / it's no defamation) :
The connector from the camera to the VTX is relatively loose (loose contact). The image can suddenly turn completely gray during flight or after a crash. This tiny connector is not good or I received a bad one. After 30 battery charges with this system I have to say that I will solder it better. Can say by now that it was probably a Monday model. The connector of the new camera holds much better. But I also have to say (in general) that it is probably safer to solder the camera cables to the VTX board...

My future build project: Coming very soon:
2" Twiglet Mini 2S 11000 KV 3-blade with the Happymodel Crux3 Canopy (Whoop to a toothpick conversion of my BETAFPV Cetus X...).

My future build project: Sometime soon:
2,5" Twiglet 3-4S XXXX KV 2 or 3-blade (Totally new parts. I already have the carbon frame and the 2-3-blade props.)

Next purchase intentions:

  • Digital-HD-Analog-SD hybrid glasses
    I just don't know which system. HDzero, Walksnail, DJI O3. It's just as difficult to decide between HD-DVD and Blu-ray as it was back then. haha
    But maybe in the FPV market the among each other incompatible digital systems gonna co-exist...

Youtube videos (oldest to most recent):
Charge 23-48 of my very first FPV series | Kaltreis Park | Twiglet Mini

FPV drone dances to music | Kaltreis Park | Twiglet Mini 1S

Photos

Discussion

Sign in to comment

SeveSch FPV   Jan 04, 2023  
1

Cool transformation.
Aluminum is too weak for 2mm screws.
I recommend titanium screws.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNzx9hg

Sugalime3D FPV   Jan 04, 2023 

TITANIUM:
Wow nice link. Already looked through Aliexpress for titanium but didn't find anything good... It was only after I ordered my steal screw set that I have done research on materials of screws for FPV. Cancellation was no longer possible. :D And I didn't feel like waiting for titanium screws. My idea was to replace the steal screws with titanium after a first build, so after the build I can see exactly what size I need. Since titanium screws have a reputation for being expensive...

ALUMINIUM:
Ok I trust your experience. I thought after my question here at rotobuilds whether the screws might bend very easily, because M2 is really really thin. But for the fact that they only have to hold the canopy and shouldn't bend too much in a crash, it might be enough. But clearly maybe too weak and soft for most applications, and maybe the reason why there is probably no mass market for it... Well, I haven't had a M2 aluminium screw in my hand yet, so I can't say anything more about it...

SeveSch FPV   Jan 05, 2023 
1

Steel screws are also good.
I don't have M2 aluminium screws either, I know it from M3 screws that the thread or the head quickly breaks off.

Sugalime3D FPV   Jan 05, 2023 

Yes, I read on the internet that you should not use aluminium to fix the motors.

scirocco   Jan 04, 2023  
1

I like this frame have them :) 2" is 5,4g and 2,5" is 6g! Very good for light build but 4S? risky... may be not enough strong for to heavy drone? Anyway have to try it why not? :)
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/29415
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/30147
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/30128

Sugalime3D FPV   Jan 04, 2023 

I want a rocket ;D I now want a Twiglet (2.5") with 3-4S because I received yesterday the 2.5" DarwinFPV TinyApe Freestyle which runs with 2-(3S). I have seen on the internet that some people run the Twiglet in 3-4S...

Guides & Reviews

Jun 21, 2021

AirbladeUAV has done it again and this time they've brought long range to the 5" class! Based on the popular Transformer Mini, the new Transformer 5" Ultralight adopts a lot of the same design philosophies with larger props and more payload capacity. It can fly upwards of 20 minutes on a 4 cell Li-Ion battery pack and in ideal conditions it's got a range of over 4 to 5 miles. In this guide I'll walk..

Read more
Mar 04, 2021

With the release of the DJI FPV Drone cinematic FPV has become a lot more accessible, but you certainly don't want to crash a $750 drone! The QAV-CINE Freybott is a compact, lightweight cinematic FPV drone that can take a hit and keep going. It's a lot safer to fly indoors and around people. With a naked GoPro or the SMO 4k you can capture some great stabilized footage. In this guide I'll show you..

Read more