Squirt v2 HD 6S - 2004 / 2900kv Motors

By wrong17 on Apr 27, 2022

14  754  11

This is an interesting build because it did not turn out as planned. In the middle of this build I have been testing and idea of prop placement within the ducts and it turns out that it can make a difference. If the props are too high, you will some efficiency. Even though we are using mini ducts, they can make a difference in the amount of thrust you get. I will come back to this idea later, but in the meantime, I will take about the problem I encountered.

A while back, I bought some 1507 2800kv motors that was on a 3” quad, but never really pay much attention to them because I did not run 6s. Finally, I have a build that it would work perfectly with those motors. After building the Squirt, I notice that one of the shaft was bent when I was testing the motor direction in Betaflight. It has been so long since I bought it so, I cannot go back to the seller and complain about it. What should I do now, because I need some motors? Since I like trying new things, I came up with another test that I have not tired before. How would a Squirt do with 2004 T Mount motors? I know of 3 props that would work with this setup:

  • HQ Duct T75MMX5 CineWhoop 5-Blade Propeller
  • Gemfan D76 Ducted 5-Blade 76mm CineWhoop Propeller
  • T-Motor T76 3" Ducted Propeller

Of the 3 props I only have the HQ and Gemfan. I just ordered a set of the T-Motor props but that would not show up until the end of the week. If I had to guess, I think the T-motor props would be the most efficient, the HQ will be the smoothest and the Gemfan is amp hungry powerhouse.

I was kind of worried about the HQ props not having enough thrust, but I was wrong. I can hover with a Full GoPro 7 around 20 - 30% throttle. It is kind of difficult to know the actual throttle position because the OSD no longer shows us with the DJI HD system.

3D Printed Parts

In the recent weeks I have been doing a lot of testing with the variouse duct setup and 3D printing settings.

To sacrafice ridgidty I was able to save a lot of weight. I am not sure what is the typical weight for a set of ducts, but in the past I was happy with the 52g weight for the pair. But now, I am able to get a pair of duct down to 32g!

More info coming soon.....


I tried using the Presets on EMU 0.4.0 and it was bad, then I tried 2 other Betaflight tunes for the Squirt and they were also no good. It is rare to find this quad with a T Mount motors so I end up try the PIDs that was on a CineLog 35 because they have similar motor size and surprisingly, it worked very well.

Alt Tag
set p_pitch = 80
set i_pitch = 88
set d_pitch = 45
set f_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 82
set i_roll = 88
set d_roll = 45
set f_roll = 99
set p_yaw = 80
set i_yaw = 60
set d_yaw = 0
set f_yaw = 99


Alt Tag
As for the rate, I used the same thing I have on the Squirt with 2205 motors.

Alt Tag
set dyn_notch_width_percent = 0
set dyn_notch_q = 120
set dyn_notch_min_hz = 150
set dyn_notch_max_hz = 600


Fast Flying

GoPro 7 - HQ T75MMX5 - CNHL MiniStar 1000MAH 22.2V 6S 100C Lipo Battery

Same video as above but with the DVR

Madien Flight

Maiden Flight - GoPro 7 - HQ T75MMX5 - CNHL MiniStar 1000MAH 22.2V 6S 100C Lipo Battery

Same video as above but with the DJI DVR



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yves1984   Aug 21, 2022  

have u no problem with the Diatone Mamba Toka 2004 2900KV on 6S? because on the page is it only for 4S. at the moment i got the Brotherhobby 2004 1950Kv but on 6S they got no power :-(

wrong17   Aug 21, 2022 

I have no issues with the Diatone Mamba Toka 2004 2900kv on 6s because I am using 3" props. There is plenty of power and seems to perform as it should for this size motor. It has noticeable power improvements over the smaller 1407 motors but does not have the raw power like a 2205. Please keep in mind, I am only talking about these motors paired with the squirt cinewhoop frame with 3" prop. Also be aware that your prop choice may affect the flight performance too. Since I do not know your setup, I do not have any specific advice for you.

yves1984   Aug 23, 2022 

i got the FlowX-Mini Frame from FPVframes.ch
its a 3,5" cinewhoop with the D90-3 Gemfan Props, BrotherHobby TC 2004 1950KV Motor and a JHEMCU GHF405AIO PRO 45A.
But on 6S i need a trottle over 50% to lift off and also got low power i think. now im wondering if it fly better with other settings or when i change the motors...
maybe u got some feedback for me.

wrong17   Aug 23, 2022 

How much does your quad weigh? Do NOT include the weight of the lipo or HD camera. What size lipo are you using? I built a Cinelog35 with 2004 1750kv motors before and it had plenty of power while lifting a full size GoPro 7. So there must be something that is off if you need over 50% throttle to lift off. I was also using the GF D90 3 blade props. Here is the Cinelog35 build so you can see my setup and weight: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/28602

Also, her is another video but with sound, so you can hear how the motors are running well and it is NOT working hard to recover after a dive, start watching at 25 sec:

BaTTaN   Jun 19, 2022  

Very nice prints! What printer are you working with?

wrong17   Jun 19, 2022 

Thanks, I am using a Sovol SV01 printer

BaTTaN   Jun 20, 2022 

Nice I have the same printer but have yet to try do do multicolored prints with it being only a single filament extruder. How are you doing it if you dont mind pointing me in the right direction? Are you using multicolored filaments or fusing?

Jodie Froster   Jun 14, 2022  

I would like to try out multicolor TPU prints. I'll start with goPro mounts, and antenna mounts, as well as motor wire guards. Any advice for choosing filaments to do this with? Pro tips for good layer adhesion between the two filament types/colors?

wrong17   Jun 14, 2022 

I personally like using Sainsmart TPU because they are very consistent across all their colors. Meaning I do not need to worry about changing the print temperature between the different color layers. I was having layer adhesion issues when I mix certain brands.
I am not sure how you plan to do the color change but if you do it manually, I usually use a Filament Change code within Cura.
You do not need a purge block if you manually switch the filaments. However, you will get some oozing when the hot end comes to a rest for the filament change. I created an Arch that uses supports and put it on the lower left side of the build, so the hot end is forced to start and stop on it.
Look at the other picture to see some of my Cura setting for my Multi color TPU prints.

I am not able to upload a picture to this reply so here are the links to the 2 images.


Jodie Froster   Jun 15, 2022 

Fascinating! Thank you so much!

wrong17   Jun 15, 2022 

No Problem, Good luck with your prints.

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