InsanitY 75mm inverted Whoop

By Square One on May 23, 2021

18  902  12

This build is heavily inspired by MR. Shutterbug. It started out as a Mobula 6, I started modding it and changing components, I just couldn't get enough it! This evolution took almost a year, I ve tried a ton of motors, props, batteries. And this is what I ended up with.
If you want a whoop that blows your socks of, this is it! The combination of the motors, props and weight is the best possible setup in my humble opinion.
It feels like a 2S whoop, speed and acceleration are insane, it's almost to fast to fly in my apartment and it's light weight ( 19.9 gr) makes it corner acceptionally well. Oh and did I mention it's flight time is 6 to 7 minutes on a 1S 450mah battery?
There's a full series on YT about this drone, and a build guide if you plan on building it, you can check it out here;

Build guide ( it's an older version so it has a few different components) :

There is a downside to taking so long to really complete this build. Some of the components are not available anymore, like the frame.
I used the Betafpv 75pro frame, in my opinion the best frame for a 75mm 1s whoop ever made. After almost a year of crashing it, it still hasn't broken! The new frame they got is crap, if you take it out the box too fast it's done for! So I think the best alternative is the mobula 7 frame, it weighs a gram less so you'll get it even lighter, but I break Happymodel frames within the first couple a weeks of flying, so I am not really a big fan of those, if you know a good alternative please tell me!

If you want to make it even lighter, use the HQ 40mm four bladed props and cut them down to 2 blades. These are less durable so I switched to the new 2 bladed props, I also prefer the feel of the new props. But that's subjective. You could fly without the foam pad under the fc, it does depend on your frame of course. And like I already mentioned by using the M7 frame.

If you wonder about the durability because the FC is unprotected or because the props are upside down, I haven't had any problems, I've been flying this board like this for almost a year. Mostly indoors, and taking of from a short haired rug is no problem, I am carefull with long haired rugs and grass.

Maybe the pids have changed since then, so just to be sure I'll add them here.
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Leo w.   Nov 18, 2023  

Hey, Awesome build. Do you need to do something on JESC or can i only use Betaflight?

Leo w.   Nov 20, 2023 

so can i do it entirely only on betaflight?

Square One   Nov 20, 2023 

well the only thing i did with jesc was change motor direction, but i think nowadays you can also do that in betaflight.

russellkt   Feb 17, 2022  

Thanks so much for this build! I decided to try it on a mobula 7 I had laying around. Flies but get a rapid rocking side to side from about 30% throttle up to full throttle. I've calibrated the accelerometer and all looks ok in Betaflight. Do you have any ideas what might be causing this?

russellkt   Feb 17, 2022 

Just for kicks, I licensed the jesc, enabled bidirectional dshot, and rpm filtering and it made a big improvement. Now it's more like an oscillation that I can hear but barely notice on video.

Square One   Feb 18, 2022 

My pleasure, I'm happy you like it and I hope you'll have fun it! Rocking side to side, it could be board alignment, but if it flies that should be correct. Next I'd try lowering P gain.

BUDLoNG   May 24, 2021  

is that dental floss i see?

Square One   May 24, 2021 

Yes it is :). Very strong and doesn't weigh anything.

russellkt   Feb 17, 2022 

I'm shocked at how strong the floss holds the camera even after multiple crashes. Next time I string up a camera I'll use a sewing needle since threading and pulling the floss was tricky.

Square One   Feb 18, 2022 

Using a sewing needle that's awesome idea, thanks man! It's very strong indeed, I almost never have to fix my camera angle.
I use a combination of hot glue and floss to keep the cam in place, so when it shifts in a crash I heat up the glue with a hairdryer, put it in the correct position, let the glue cool down and I'm good to go.

fovea   May 27, 2021  

very nice build :-) thanks for share

i have a shutter-clone too and was mention a few times about switch it into a pusher. does the rotors fit well? did you adjust by a needle?
i thought it might be the wrong shape of the duct/guards as pusher, but 6-7min flighttime, seems it cant be wrong :-)

why do you use topmount battery? did you try bottom mounted?

only two motorscrews, thats not ok xD no vibrations/wobbles from that?
im still looking for some nylon screws xD

Square One   May 28, 2021 

I saw your drone, that's really light, nice one! Yes I had to grind the top of some props out, because props aren't meant to be put on that way. The HQ biblade props I drilled out with a hand drill bit. The HQ 4 blades props are softer and I just widened the top opening with my tweezers.
No the shape of the duct has no influence on it's performance, the top mount battery does, putting the weight higher than the prop line changes the center of gravity, it makes your whoop feel more responsive. When you put the weight under the prop line it has more of a pendulum effect. I am not saying this is the better way, it depends on feeling you like, a lot of 5" racers have a bottom mounted battery, most freestyle drone have a top mount. So you should try for yourself and see which one you like better. I do feel like it helps with propswash.
Didn't have any problems using only 2 motor screws, I've flown with 3 screws and with 2 screws, makes no difference on this build. On my 65mm it actually did matter so I'd say try it and see how it flies. I saved about 0.1gr by using only 2 per motor, not that much, but it helps. I am also looking for reny ( plastic) screws, they are hard to find in Europe in this size.

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