1s Warrior 555

By matthew saigon on Nov 29, 2020

21  1,244  2

2/24/21: i updated the pid, filters, and esc setting. it flies pretty good now if you can keep the weight around 28g. ( but i'm not a good tuner )

12/13/20: Happymodel 65mm props, they feel pretty good with this setup. they're good for small spaces with lots of turns. i don't think they're good for larger spaces.
I posted a picture of PID tune for these props.
set thrust_linear = 50 ( and of course, you need to follow the PID for bi-blade props first before use this PID tune )

First time using race rate, 2.05 exp 0.40, 555, i might call this build, Warrior 555 LOL.
I'm afraid i might accidentally do a flip with freestyle rate.
Also new track and camera angle 40 degree. i'm trying to get used to all of it.
someday, i'll get good at it and start 2.5" racings LOL

12/10/20: HQ65mm ( not HQ T65mm ) are great and more durable, but you have to drill it out to fit.

12/9/20: i added a picture, showing how to cut gemfan 65mm props. it helps with bending shaft problem. hope it'll work for you.

12/2/20: i put on gemfan 65mm props ( not 65mmS ). it seems more efficient and faster and grip better. one concern is the hubs are a bit high.

11/30/20 update: i've been through 30 packs between yesterday and today. the more i fly it the more i like it. it has the perfect amount of thrust to weight ratio, basically it gives me the best feel. of course, not everyone likes the same setup, so this is just me and the way i fly it and not for everyone.
You can compare the 14000kv and 18000kv in my videos of this setup and the other one.
14000kv i like to fly with more open space, do a lot of powerloops, covering the whole yard.
18000kv i like to stay small, quick turns, burst of power and quick recoveries from mistakes i made.

Seriously the best 1s setup i've tried. ( and seriously, don't do all black color or you will step on your quad while searching for it, LOL )

1102 12000kv vs. 14000kv vs 18000kv.
Knowing how you'd like to fly your quads would help you to choose the right kv.
12000kv -- slow, can hold at high throttle for long, ease of mind, don't care much for throttle management.
14000kv -- a bit faster, hold at high throttle for 1-2 seconds only to climb trees and powerlooping.
18000kv -- fast, tight area, racing style. don't hold at high throttle for even 1 second, split second only. manage your throttle when climbing trees and powerlooping.

26grams dry,
batteries: 13g 450mah or 14g 650mah
the rest of the parts are in the links below.
Note to newbies: 26grams setup flies different from 40grams, so try to keep it as light as possible.
And camera angle at 35-40 degree. at 20 degree it would feel floaty.
And also, if you find yourself cruising around at 50-60% throttle, it means it's time to get more powerful setups and leave this one aside and come back to it later when you can fly better and understand quads more. don't ruin your batteries. i was new to FPV before so i know.

See the countersink drill bit in the picture ? that is for drilling the top of the hub of propellers and now you can push propellers all the way down. it's important. or you will get bent shafts in crashes. and i got it from CNCmadness.

Learning to hit cube gates.

PID tune is ok, not great. i don't know how to tune quads.
Go in and take a look at your esc setting. the setting that comes with the board is mostly bad.
esc setting: RPM telemetry, 48 MHZ, 1.00 startup, high, medium high, JESC firmware or BLHeli_M ( this is just general and not specific to your board )
Betaflight 4.2.3 and newer
set thrust_linear = 25
RPM filters,
vbat_sag_compensation = 100
Use preset ToothPick from here ( and thank you, UAV Tech for the presets ) https://theuavtech.com/presets/
And then use the PID tune below in the picture.



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Junnicutt   Dec 10, 2020  

you do a great job with your descriptions. looking through your builds is a great resource for anyone building babytooth style quads. I'm getting all my parts together now to build a 3 inch 1s, which board would you recommend if i wanted to use an external vtx (aka not built into the fc)? Also if you find that countersunk bit to be difficult to get a clean result then the countersinking bits that have single hole drilled through them at 45° tend to create much cleaner holes in my experience. the description i used sounds weird but once you see one itll make sense. thanks for all the info.

matthew saigon   Dec 10, 2020 

thanks for info about drilling.
Emax has good reputation for good quality control and they just came out with the new nanohawk board and vtx. So that might be a good choice.
Bob Roogi ( aka KababFPV ) is coming out with new 1s 3" motors, so you might want to look into that.

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