Build a Cinematic FPV Drone - Beta95X V2

By Whiffles on Nov 19, 2020

53  14,370  53

FPV has had quite a journey. Just a few years ago we started racing drones around a track and doing flips over trees, but professional cinematic FPV is a more recent development. DJI has always owned the drone photography market, but smaller acrobatic drones are starting to enter the market. They have the advantage of close proximity flight indoors and around people. There's more artistic freedom and the result can be captivating. In this guide I'll show you how to build such a drone.

Buy Pre-Built

You can buy this model pre-built, but this guide seeks to improve upon the original design. Most notably the BNF model comes with the Caddx Nebula camera which is inferior to the DJI camera used in the guide. On top of that you'll get better antenna placement, a more accessible USB and the experience of building your own drone.


This build requires some soldering, but compared to most builds it's minimal. I highly recommend a flux pen, 63/37 leaded solder and a quality soldering iron. Here are the tools and supplies you'll need. My preferred tools are listed in the Gear section below.

  • Soldering iron
  • 1.5mm hex driver
  • Precision Tweezers
  • Precision Screwdriver set
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • Scissors

Additional Supplies

  • Blue Loctite
  • 63/37 leaded solder
  • Liquid soldering flux pen

3D Prints

This guide uses custom 3D printed parts. Most are based on this .stl set. This store has shown interest in selling these parts pre-printed, so please contact them to request such a product. I think it would really help others who follow this guide in the future. Otherwise you can submit the $1.50 .stl set to a 3D printing service as outlined in this video by Joshua Bardwell.

Video Transmitter

Let's start by wiring up the video transmitter. If you flip the unit over the pads are much larger. If you're using Crossfire you can exclude the SBUS and Ground pads at the outside edge. Solder the included wires to the Bat, Ground, RX and TX pads. Refer to the photos for wire placement on the flight controller.

If you're using the DJI remote use the RX connector included with the flight controller. Remove all the wires except the white wire (RX3). This goes to the SBUS pad on the Caddx Vista air unit. I'm not sure how long this wire is so you may need to join it to the wire included with the Caddx Vista. You need a fair amount of length. You can exclude the 2nd ground as one is sufficient.

Before you mount the Vista air unit you need to activate it and ensure the firmware is up to date. The USB-C plug is difficult to access once the air unit is installed, so it's best to do this now.

  1. Download DJI Assistant V2 (FPV)
  2. Remove the corner screw from the Vista to release the bracket covering the antenna plug and plug the antenna in. You don't need to put the bracket back on just yet.
  3. Plug your 4-in-1 ESC into the flight controller.
  4. Plug your Vista into your computer using a USB-C cable and plug a battery into your 4-in-1 ESC to power the Vista air unit.
  5. Follow the prompts in DJI Assistant V2 to activate and update the firmware.

Once that's complete you can unplug the battery, disconnect the 4-in-1 ESC and remove the antenna from the Vista air unit.

Alt Tag

Crossfire Receiver

Alt Tag If you're using Crossfire you'll need to solder your receiver to the RX cable that came with the flight controller. The wiring is pretty straightforward. In fact they line up directly. Channel 2 goes to TX3 and Channel 1 goes to RX3. After you've wired the receiver you can attach the antenna and bind it to your radio. If it's a new receiver you just need to apply power to the flight controller and put your radio into bind mode. It should bind automatically. If the receiver was previously bound you'll need to press the bind button after powering it up. It may need to do a firmware update, so give it a moment. Add some shrink tube to the receiver to protect it from shorts.


Assembly requires a fairly particular series of steps. The air unit needs to be mounted upside down while the wires wrap around from the back. The flight controller mounts to the bottom of the frame and the ESC board mounts to the top. All the while the top of the frame is the bottom and the bottom plate is now a top plate. Confused? Hopefully I can walk you through it.

  1. Pass the flight controller through the center of the frame to the bottom. Keep the Caddx Vista on top.
    • If you're using the Crossfire Nano receiver wrap the wires around so it rests on top of the flight controller.
  2. Flip the frame over and attach the dampeners to ther corners of the flight controller. Make sure the USB is pointed downward and toward the back of the frame before you seat the flight controller onto the plastic pegs.
  3. Flip the frame back over and feed the ESC cable through the front left gap between the frame and the flight controller. Screw the ESC board in place using three silver washer-head screws.
  4. Flip the frame over to the bottom again and carefully bend the ESC cable over the connector to plug it in. It's a tight fit.
  5. OPTIONAL If you plan to use a naked GoPro and want to power it through the flight controller you can attach the naked GoPro wire to the same pads used to power the Caddx Vista. Remove the yellow wire as it's somewhat problematic. I prefer not to power the GoPro this way though because I killed a GoPro before powering it directly from the battery. I'll outline my solution below.
  6. Now use the M1.6 screws included in the Beta95X V2 kit to secure the antenna mount to the top plate.
  7. Remove the corner screws from the bottom of the Caddx Vista and mount it to the top plate using the remaining M1.6 screws, not the original screws.
  8. Flip the Vista over and feed the antenna cable through the TPU mount and plug it into the Vista. Put the bracket back over the plug and screw it back in place. (You should have already removed the bracket earlier to activate the Vista)
  9. Flip the Vista back over and pass the battery lead from the ESC board through the top plate.
  10. If you're using Crossfire, feed the Immortal-T antenna through the mount and plug it into the Crossfire Nano receiver.
  11. Mount the camera to the top plate by first securing the TPU mount to the camera with the longer M2 screws. Then mount it to the top plate using the black pointy screws.
  12. Carefully seat the top plate onto the frame making sure not to pinch the Crossfire antenna cable. Screw it into place using the black counter-sunk screws included with the kit.

Alt TagAlt Tag
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Next you'll need to mount the motors. This is fairly straightforward so I won't go into much detail. Screw each motor onto the frame, feed the wires through and plug them into the ESC board. It helps to use tweezers to manipulate the wires through the frame and into the plugs.

Finishing Up

Now we're down to the nitty gritty. Let's wrap this thing up!

  1. Using your tweezers tug at the Caddx Vista wires through the top plate to make sure there's no slack around the side of the air unit. Use electrical tape to secure them to the side of the Caddx Vista so they're protected from the props.
  2. Screw the cover over the bottom of the flight controller.
  3. Stick the battery pad to the top plate.
  4. If you plan to use an Insta360 Go or naked GoPro put the blue vibration dampeners onto the top of the frame. It helps to wrap some dental floss around the tops of them to pull them through the holes.
  5. Mount the Insta360 or GoPro mount to the carbon fiber plate by screwing the pointy black screws up through the carbon into the TPU.
  6. Use the dental floss method to mount the plate to the vibration dampeners on the frame.
  7. Use the long nylon screw to put a little tension on the front dampener. Secure it in place with the nylon nut which goes on top. You don't need much tension, but it should be enough that the camera doesn't wiggle around too much.
  8. Slide the battery strap between the top plate and the receiver with the buckle toward the rear. If you don't want to mount the battery sideways you can put the battery strap on before you secure the top plate, but it'll be a little more difficult to manipulate later on.
  9. Add a foam landing skid or something similar to the bottom of the quad to raise the motors off the ground.
  10. Add a TPU lens protector to the DJI camera.

Keep your props off for now. You still need to test the motor orientation and positions.

Alt Tag


Now let's plug it in and get it set up! If you don't already have them, you'll need to download Betaflight Configurator Download and BLHeli_32 Configurator [Download].

Flash the Firmware

This is optional, but if you'd like the latest version of Betaflight you can flash it.

  1. Go to the Firmware Flasher and choose "Release", "BETAFPVF405" and the latest stable release of Betaflight (At this time 4.2.4)
    • Leave the remaining options unchecked.
  2. Click "Load Firmware [Online]" and then "Flash Firmware" to update your flight controller. Once complete, click "Connect"

Ports Tab

  • Set UART1 to Configuration/MSP
  • Set UART3 to Serial Rx

Configuration Tab

  1. Under Mixer set "Motor direction is reversed" if props are in the props out configuration.
  2. Under ESC/Motor Features select "DSHOT600" and enable "Bidirectional DShot".
  3. Under Board and Sensor Alignment set First GYRO to "CW 270°"
    • This is only if you flipped the USB down. If you're using a BNF model and the USB is pointed up, this would be "CW 270° Flip".
  4. Under System configuration set Gyro update frequency & PID loop frequency to 8 kHz.
  5. Under Arming set the Max arm angle to 180 (Only if you keep the accelerometer turned on)
  6. Under Personalization set your FPV handle
  7. Under Receiver choose your receiver. If you used Crossfire choose "Serial-based receiver" and "CRSF". If you used the DJI remote choose "Serial-based receiver" and "SBUS"
  8. Under Other Features enable: Telemetry, Airmode, OSD and Dynamic Filter
  9. Under DSHOT Beacon Configuration enable "RX_SET" and change your beacon tone to 2.
    Click Save and Reboot

Alt Tag

PID Tuning Tab

I tuned this from the stock Betaflight 4.2 PIDs using the sliders. This tune is mainly targeted toward 4S batteries, so you may need a slightly different tune to run a 3S pack. It's a tad aggressive on the motors, particularly with the D min turned off and the higher filter values, but my motors are only a little warm to the touch. If you find yours are getting too hot you can try dropping the filter sliders one notch to the left or you can turn D min back on. I really do like how this tune flies though!

The rates are according to my preference, so if you have different rates that you prefer go ahead and use those.

Alt Tag

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On the OSD tab check all of the values you want and arrange your OSD as desired. I've only got the RSSI/LQ value enabled and I refer to the DJI goggle OSD to monitor the voltage.


You'll need to paste these commands into the CLI to ensure the correct motor positions are known to the flight controller.

resource MOTOR 1 A03
resource MOTOR 2 A02
resource MOTOR 3 B00 
resource MOTOR 4 B01

To complete the remaining steps apply lipo power and turn your radio on

DJI Bind

  1. Bind your Caddx Vista to your DJI goggles by pressing their respective bind buttons.
  2. Make sure you've got a video link and choose a Player channel.
  3. Set your display preferences. I like High quality on 50mbps with Focus mode off.
  4. Bind your remote if you're using the DJI remote.

Receiver Tab

  1. Ensure your pitch, roll, throttle and yaw are being applied correctly. Adjust your transmitter and Channel Map as needed.
    • I like to add 3 to both deadbands to smooth out gimbal jitter.
  2. Set your RSSI channel
    • For Crossfire go to the Crossfire menu on your radio, choose your receiver and set a channel to "LQ". I put it on channel 12 which is AUX 8 in Betaflight.
  3. Go to the Telemetry page on your radio and Discover sensors. You should see all your telemetry data appear.

Modes Tab

  • Assign an Aux switch to arm and disarm your quad.
  • Assign another Aux switch to enable Horizon or Angle mode if you want them.
  • Assign the Beeper and "Flip over after crash" to a 3rd and/or 4th switch.

Motors Tab

Enable the motor test and check the rotation of each motor.

  • Do this by sliding the master to around 1040 so you can rub the side of each motor with your finger to determine the rotation.
  • Refer to the image on top and take note of any that need to be reversed.
  • You might also want to ensure each motor is in the correct position by referring to the numbers in the image and powering them one by one.
  • If any motors need to be reversed continue on to BLHeli_32 Configurator.

BLHeli_32 Configurator

Disconnect from Betaflight Configurator and open BLHeli_32 Configurator

  • Connect and Read Settings
  • Reverse each motor that needs to be reversed. This is done by de-selecting the ESCs with the correct motor rotation at the bottom and changing the motor direction for the motors that need it. Click "Write setup" to save.
  • Reconnect to Betaflight Configurator to test the motor rotations.


Mount the props to the motors using the included M2 screws. I used the "props out" orientation so the front left and rear right props spin counter-clockwise. Make sure the props are mounted right-side up. That means the top of each prop should be touching the motors.

You might want to conduct a test hover indoors just to make sure it doesn't flip out. If it does then you've likely got your motors in the incorrect positions, the rotations aren't correct or the props are on wrong. Double check each of these.

Naked GoPro Power Lead

If you're using a naked GoPro you might want to power it through a backup BEC and capacitor connected to the balance lead of your battery. I prefer to do this because it further protects my GoPro from voltage spikes. You can use a 9v or 12v BEC with at least 1.5A of current. Make sure you pay close attention to the polarity of your wires when doing this.

  1. Get a 4S balance lead kit and remove all the pins from the male plug.
  2. Solder red and black wires to two of the pins that you removed and push them back into the plastic connector.
    • If you try to solder to the pins while they're still in the plastic connector it'll melt
  3. Solder these wires to the input pads on the BEC.
  4. Solder a 470uF Low ESR Capacitor to the same pads ensuring the polarity is correct. The capacitor should have a minus sign along the negative side.
  5. Remove the yellow wire from the naked GoPro power lead and solder the wires to the output pads of the BEC.
  6. Add shrink tube to the power lead.


Part List


Beta95X Frame Kit (15 builds)


Beta95X V2 Pusher Kit (2 builds)

Flight Controller

BETAFPV Upgraded F405 V2 FC 4S Brushless Flight Controller and BLHeli_32 16A ESC OSD Smart Audio No Receiver with XT30 Cable for


BETAFPV 1106 4500KV Brushless Motors (4pcs)


Gemfan D63 3-Blade Propellers 1.5mm Shaft (3 builds)

FPV Camera

Caddx Vista Digital HD System for DJI HD FPV (204 builds)


Team BlackSheep TBS Crossfire Nano Receiver (SE) (412 builds)


450mAh 4S 75C Lipo Battery (2PCS) (6 builds)


GNB 550 mAh 4S 14.8V 80C/160C XT30 (4 builds)


Team BlackSheep Tango 2 PRO Crossfire Radio Controller (14 builds)


DJI Digital HD FPV Goggles (143 builds)

3D Printed

BETA95X 3D printed parts

3D Printed

Lens Protector for DJI FPV Camera _ Choose Color

3D Printed

BETAFPV 95X V2 3D parts

3D Printed

DJI HD FPV Camera Lens Protector by Painless360
See Site

3D Printed

Beta95X V2 Bottom Plate by marcnetic
See Site

HD Camera

GoPro HERO6 Black 4K Action Camera (Renewed) (33 builds)

Soldering Iron

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) (34 builds)


Wowstick 1F+ 64 In 1 Electric Screwdriver Cordless Lithium-ion Charge LED Power Screwdriver (9 builds)

Misc Supplies

iFlight 2-8S Micro 5V or 12V BEC (11 builds)

Misc Supplies

4S Balance Lead JST-XH 4S1P Balance Connector Male/Female Plug - 10 Pack (2 builds)

Misc Supplies

Case V2 for Naked Camera (5 builds)

Misc Supplies

Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter (7 builds)

Misc Supplies

Panasonic 470uF 50V (NHG-Series) Capacitor for ESC Noise Reduction (4 builds)

Misc Supplies

Panasonic 35V 470uF LOW ESR Capacitor (14 builds)
Show stores (9)


Sign in to comment

billi   Jun 16, 2021  
howardellis   May 10, 2021  

Thank you for the guide to the construction! I'm searching for my first drone and wondering if that's going to fly off shelf with a standard, GoPro? If necessary, I wouldn't want to take off my GoPro, but still want to test out a film drone. Thank you for your answers!

howardellis   May 10, 2021  
kudos007   Dec 30, 2020  

This such an amazing build. I wish i had built it myself rather than purchasing it :(. I have a little challenge that i wonder if anyone here has manage to solve. it? I have DJI set-up Caddex, but for the life of me i can't get the OSD information into the googles. I'm using TBS Tango 2 set-up too. I have done all the required steps e.g. enable custom display in the googles. I have re checked the RSSI set-up. I have looked at the the UARTS etc... Would love to know if anyone here has managed to crack this, if so please could you let me know how you didn it!

Whiffles   Jan 03, 2021 

Hmm, OSD is enabled on the configuration tab? Did you double check that it was wired properly?

321   Jan 31, 2021 

Is the OSD Video Format in Betaflight set to PAL or NTSC? If so, try the other or Auto. Just had the same issue on a different controller (toothpick) and that fixed it. Worth a try.

ronit96   Jan 30, 2021  
ronit96   Jan 30, 2021  
Randall   Jan 15, 2021  

hey guys, I'm totally new on this :) the video is not for a beginner like me, so do you have any video where I can do step by step?

Whiffles   Jan 19, 2021 

Why not just buy a BNF model if it's your first?

Pieter_Jan   Jan 15, 2021  

Hey Whiffles, Thanks for the great build guide!

I just built my 95xv2 with the same components, only I have the F405 2-4S AIO Brushless Flight Controller (BLHeli_S) V3.
This one does not seem to work with Dshot 600 or 300 as the motors won't spin or just twitch at max throttle.
Which ESC protocol would you recommend? Using cadxx vista.


Show 1 more comment
Whiffles   Jan 15, 2021 

It should work with Dshot300/600 just fine. Do you have the correct firmware for the board? You don't want to use the firmware release I mentioned in the article as it's a different board.

Pieter_Jan   Jan 15, 2021 

I reflashed my ESCs and went back 1 version with betaflight now it somehow works :D
Thanks for the response!

Whiffles   Jan 15, 2021 


funbiesong   Jan 09, 2021  

hi Whiffles , about to change camera to dji , will the mount that come with the beta v2 fit? i am sure will not. your kit should fit?

Show 3 more comments
Whiffles   Jan 12, 2021 

I haven't tried the V3 so I'm not exactly sure what the measurements are. I'd check Thingiverse to see if anybody has made any components for it yet.

funbiesong   Jan 12, 2021 

it comes with 2 camera mount so dji cam will fit .so no need to 3

Whiffles   Jan 14, 2021 


Blunt7   Jan 10, 2021  

You've built exactly what I want in a UAV!! Since I dont have the tools or money to invest all $1,300 right now, is purchasing the RTF version and upgrading as I am able a viable option? Is the RTF version able to be modularly upgraded in that fashion?

Whiffles   Jan 12, 2021 

Sure! I'll work just fine. Are you referring to the DJI version? The only downside is it uses the Nebula camera which is inferior to the DJI camera. Upgrading to the Nebula Pro should be a viable option, but it'll require fully disassembling the quad.

embra   Jan 06, 2021  

Hello, thank you for your very detailed infos. I just finished building my 95xV2 with the same components like yours, but at a first test flight I noticed that the propeller on the side of the Vista usb port is making a slight contact with the port when turning. This can also be heard by the noise its making while the motors are spinning. Tried to lift it up anyway just for a few seconds and it flew quite well but it came down with that motor quite overheated. Even on the opposite side of the Vista the clearance is almost nothing but at least its not making contact. I wonder if you are having enough clearance between that prop and the usb c port. Thanks in advance for your help!

Show 1 more comment
embra   Jan 06, 2021 

Thank you very much for your very fast and kind reply. I am using the Betafpv 1106 4500Kv motors. I will try to fit some sort of spacers to lower them a couple of millimeters. Thanks

Whiffles   Jan 06, 2021 

This kit comes with some spacers, or you can buy his .stl files for $1.50 if you've got your own printer. You probably won't need all the parts here though.

embra   Jan 06, 2021 

Thank you so much! Very useful link! I may order those from there.

randombuffalo   Dec 31, 2020  

Thanks for the build guide! I'm looking to build my first drone and was wondering if this would fly with a regular, off the shelf, GoPro? I don't want to take apart my GoPro if possible but would still like to try out a Cinematic drone. Thanks for any answers!

randombuffalo   Dec 31, 2020 

I'm concerned the weight of the default GoPro case would through off the handling of the drone.

Whiffles   Jan 03, 2021 

I have seen others do it with a full size GoPro but this is very underpowered for it. You won't get much flight time and it'll stress the motors. You want at least 3" props for a GoPro.

randombuffalo   Jan 03, 2021 

Thanks so much for the response and helpful reply. Okay I'll check out a build with bigger props for the full GoPro.

bong48   Dec 28, 2020  

hi man! can you help me? i'm building a beta85x v2 im kinda lost on how the vtx wiring can you help me? please.

Whiffles   Jan 03, 2021 

Sorry for the delay! Were you able to solve this?

mikestanley464   Nov 29, 2020  
Mohitvermaji51   Dec 27, 2020  

i want to buy this...please tell me how can i buy...?

Whiffles   Dec 27, 2020 

BETAFPV sells a version with the Caddx Nebula camera and they just came out with a V3 version. What I made here cannot be purchased without building it though.

Mohitvermaji51   Dec 27, 2020  

Hey man, thank you so much for putting this together. Exactly what I was hoping to do with my analog 95x v2. I don't see the info available on Rotorbuilds yet (maybe you're still putting it together), but if you could, please also include a CLI dump on your config. Did you by any chance update the board to BF 4.2?

Whiffles   Dec 27, 2020 

This is on 4.2 and I won't be releasing my diff. I just don't think it's a good idea as the wrong person will paste it in and cause problems. I prefer everybody learn how to configure via the interface instead.

funbiesong   Dec 18, 2020  

i might mod to v3 frame, how about you guys?

Whiffles   Dec 21, 2020 

I'm still making up my mind about the V3 frame. I don't like the antenna mount as it doesn't support the stock Caddx Vista antenna. I imagine a 3D printed plug with a hole might do the trick though. I'm also not sure it supports the two board stack, but it's been discontinued anyway. Might just have to do a fresh build.

funbiesong   Dec 21, 2020 

yes me too . I do have a 1 board on v2 but cane with v3 board

Whiffles   Dec 22, 2020 

You might as well just fly the V2 for now. There's no real compelling reason to change frames IMO.

lgustol   Dec 19, 2020  

Where can you get that TPU lens protector?

Whiffles   Dec 21, 2020 

I linked one on Thingiverse, otherwise you can buy the one I linked in the part list.

funbiesong   Dec 10, 2020  

your pid very nice . i need sugestion in upgrade motorany spefic sugestion. that will fit. the beta motor i bought is to short to clear props from hitting vista

Whiffles   Dec 10, 2020 

You can try adding a 3D printed spacer below the motors to give them more clearance.

funbiesong   Dec 10, 2020 

ok thanks , i asking brain 3d if he can make some

peri   Dec 01, 2020  

Very nice build, as usual!

I've been thinking about building something similar to carry an Insta360 GO. I have a spare flight controller that I would like use if possible, a Crazybee F4 Pro V3 10A. Trying to figure out whether the integrated ESC in that FC would be enough for this sort of quad, possibly with a 3S 450mAh battery, or similar. Perhaps using a 2.5" frame?


Whiffles   Dec 01, 2020 

I think that board may fit the 95X frame, but you'll want to check the current for the motor you choose. 10A is a little low for a 2.5" but it may be fine. See if you can find some other builds on the site with that board and check what motors they're running.

peri   Dec 01, 2020 

I've been flying 2.5" toothpicks with that FC+ESC combo for some time (things like the Happy Model Larva X), but the extra weight of the ducts and the Insta360 GO could be too much!

G4Z   Nov 30, 2020  

and of course dental floss!!!! Brilliant!!

G4Z   Nov 29, 2020  

Whoa! thanks for posting this! I bought one and had to send it back to RDQ as it would not arm. I have an other Beta 95X (the right side up one) and it flies great! You are right though the vista cam is way superior to the caddx. I run crossfire so I'll probably remount that as well. What a great detailed post!!

nemesix2001   Nov 27, 2020  

nice guide thanks!!! what is the final weight (with and without battery) and flight time with your chosen battery? again thanks for the guide very helpful for a beginner like me ;)

Whiffles   Nov 27, 2020 

That's all in the video, but off the top of my head the weight without the battery with the GoPro is around 160g and with a 550mah 4S it's around 230g. I get about 3 1/2 minutes on that battery.

mivo   Nov 20, 2020  

While looking forward to receive parts to start my own 95X build with the invaluable help of your guide, i'm still puzzled about providing the correct voltage to my naked gopro.
While browsing around, I keep reading different opinion about betafpv BEC, someone says is good enough while some other say it has its weakness and it is prone to kill Gopro mainboard, due to not being able to regulate voltage spikes.
The solution you provided (haven't found any info regarding the external BEC you are using tough) seems to add an additional layer of safety but isn't there any chance that when plugging the lipo in, a voltage spike could possibly run through both becs because there isn't enough time for the voltage to be regulated?

Whiffles   Nov 20, 2020 

I'm not sure that's a concern, but another option is to make a power lead using a spike absorber. I haven't tried this but it's also a viable option.

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