Eachine Wizard Killer x220 F4 Build Guide

By Whiffles on Mar 07, 2017

90  15,847  55

Check the latest revision, the Wizard Killer Mark III

Whether or not you're new to FPV quads, you've probably heard of the Eachine Wizard. While it's a great starter rig it has some shortcomings. This guide provides instructions on how to build a higher quality, comparable quad at nearly the same price. Some improvements include:

  • F4 flight controller for faster loop times
  • Dshot compatible 4-in-1 ESC
  • CCD camera for a wider dynamic range
  • OSD for real time voltage readings
  • Blackbox for tuning
  • A more solid frame and better quality motors

This is a fairly easy starter build as it doesn't require quite as many solder joints as a typical build. The 4-in-1 ESC saves about 16 joints. Also, this is a very roomy frame, so you've got lots of space for your RX as well as an HD camera. So let's get started!


Frame Assembly

I had a few liberties with the kit, so I'll do my best to explain the build process. Most folks will screw the the frame together from the top. Instead, I excluded the red PDB and inserted the screws through the bottom. This offers a much more flush bottom face. To mount the stack I inserted the same screws through the bottom and screwed the standoffs into them as pictured:


Wiring the Motors and ESCs

After securing all of the screws I mounted the motors and fitted the 4-in-1. This particular ESC requires a little finesse around one of the standoffs. If the standoff isn't at the proper orientation it'll bump part of the circuitry under the board. Just be sure it sits flush on top of all of the standoffs. You might want to consider some blue loctite to mount the motors as there's a small chance the motor screws can wiggle free over time. This is debatable, so it's really a suggestion rather than a requirement. Note: The bottom plate is backwards in the next couple pictures, so make sure the ESC FC plug is facing the front of the quad.

Motors & ESCs

The first thing you want to do is replace the power leads. The wires they used were far too thin for a quad of this size. I used 16AWG which isn't ideal for a 4S build (14AWG would be better), but the pads were super tiny. It should be fine. Another problem is the motor wires are too short, so you need to join them to the pre-installed 4-in-1 wires. Ideally the motor wires should solder directly to the 4-in1 to reduce any potential point of failures.

Soo, I decided to get a little fancy with the wires. The paracord is entirely optional, but I've always wanted to give it a try. At the very least you need a little shrink tubing to cover the joints. I cut 3 pieces of paracord to 2.6 inches each and slid them over the wires. Then I cut a couple larger pieces of shrink tube to go over the paracord and 3 tiny pieces to go over each joint. You should tin the wires before adding any of the tubing to avoid melting it pre-maturely.


At this point you can solder the wires, but be careful not to melt the shrink tube before you sleeve the joints. Get in quick and get out quick. Once it's soldered up you can sleeve the joints and melt the tubing. Before you melt the larger tubing over the paracord it's a good idea to take a lighter to the ends to reduce the fraying.

I used a little double-sided tape to keep the wires down and here's how it turned out:

Wires complete

Wiring the Flight Controller

Now for the fun part! Wiring the FC and FPV gear can go really quick if you know where all the wires go. The first thing you need to do is send power to the board. These go to the vbat and ground pads.


Now that your board has power you can work on your FPV/OSD. This flight controller has 5v out but I found that it isn't enough amperage to power either the VTX or the camera, so you'll have to use the 5V BEC listed in the part list. To prepare the BEC remove the shrink wrap and de-wire it. Make sure you've got some shrink tube wide enough to cover it up afterward, or you can just use some electrical tape. I passed the vbat straight from the flight control board to the BEC and then connected both the camera and VTX power leads to the BEC output. It has terminals for two sets of wire on the output end. While this BEC isn't as small as a pololu, it'll get the job done. Make be sure you buy the 5v BEC because 12v is too much for this little VTX.

Finally, solder the camera video to the FC OSD in and the VTX video to the FC OSD out. That's it for the FPV wiring.


Receiver and ESCs

Now for the finishing touches! Depending on what TX/RX you're using the RX wiring will vary. Since I use a DSMX radio, I used a LemonRX diversity satellite. A nice trick to protect your antennas is to wrap zip-ties around the front arms pointed back toward the motors. Then you can use some shrink tube to affix them to the zip-ties where they'll never be affected by prop strikes or upside down "landings". Finally, don't forget to connect your ESC board to the FC. Just use the short cable included in the package.


Now you're ready to configure! As always, make sure your motors are in the proper positions and that they're spinning the proper directions. The first thing you need to do is flash to the latest stable release of BetaFlight. Keep in mind that this board uses the Omnibus F4 distribution. If you use the same components listed below you can re-arrange the motors with these CLI commands:

resource MOTOR 1 A03
resource MOTOR 2 A02
resource MOTOR 3 B01
resource MOTOR 4 B00

After that you'll want to reverse the motor direction through BLHeli Configurator. In my case I needed to reverse motors 2 and 3. This ESC supports DSHOT300, so be sure to toggle that. And since this is an F4 board you can run both your PID loop and Gyro at 8khz. Now the rest is up to you! You'll want to bind and map your receiver, set your modes (ARM, AIR MODE, HORIZON, etc.), and configure your OSD. One nice thing about dshot is you won't need to calibrate your ESCs.

Camera Settings

One important step that I usually take care of last is adjust the camera settings. You'll need to hook it up to an analog screen using the included wire harness. The power lead is perfect for a Fatshark battery, but if you don't have one you can just use a laptop power supply. Just make sure the voltage and polarity are correct. Here are some optimal FPV camera settings. If you set your camera according to that document you'll be all set!

Final weight with Mobius Mini: 356g



Part List


Martian II 220 220mm 4mm Arm Thickness Carbon Fiber Frame Kit w/ PDB For RC Drone (90 builds)

Flight Controller

CA$20.54 56% Omnibus Betaflight F4 Flight Controller V1 STM32 F405 MCU Integrated OSD for RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor RC (38 builds)


Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1 Blheli_S Opto ESC 2-4S Support Dshot150 Dshot300 for RC FPV Racing Drone (67 builds)


4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2300KV 2-4S Brushless Motor Dark Blue For 210 X220 250 280 RC Drone (5 builds)


CA$9.99 10% 10 Pairs Kingkong / LDARC 5040 5x4x3 3-Blade Single Color CW CCW Propellers for Racing Drone RC Parts from Toys (79 builds)

FPV Camera

Banggood (130 builds)

FPV Transmitter

Eachine VTX03 Super Mini 5.8G 72CH 0/25mW/50mw/200mW Switchable FPV Transmitter (417 builds)


AHTECH Infinity 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 85C Graphene LiPo Battery XT60 Support 15C Boosting Charger (81 builds)

Power Distribution

DC-DC Converter Step Down Module UBEC 3A 5V / 12V BEC For RC Airplane FPV for RC Drone FPV Racing (3 builds)

HD Camera

Mobius Mini Lens B 135 Degree Wide Angle Super Light FPV 1080P HD Camera DashCam 60FPS H.264 AVC (4 builds)

Misc Parts

MTV Mount 1.8mm 170 Degree Wide Angle Lens For FPV Camera (10 builds)

Misc Parts

5 Pairs Black XT60 Bullet Connector Plugs for RC Battery (2 builds)

Misc Parts

10 PCS M3*30 Colorful M3 Aluminum Column Spacer for RC Racer Drone Multirotor Silver Black Red Orang (3 builds)

Misc Parts

Suleve™ M3NH3 6mm M3 Nylon Screw Black Hex Screw Nut Nylon PCB Standoff Assortment Kit 25pcs (7 builds)

Misc Parts

1M 8/10/12/14/16/18/20/22/24/26 AWG Silicone Wire SR Cable Wire (6 builds)
See Site

Misc Parts

Mobius Mini. Schutz 20°+ 25° by smart67
See Site

Misc Parts

550 Paracord Black Jet Black Made in USA
See Site
Show stores (3)


Sign in to comment

cutthenoise   Dec 03, 2017  

Quick question, would you say there room enough to use smaller stand-offs and make a lower-profile build with this? Maybe swap out the cam?

Whiffles   Dec 03, 2017 

Check my updated version of this build. It uses 25mm standoffs. If you use a Runcam Micro Swift it's certainly doable.

Peterman_5000   Oct 18, 2017  

Question, I want to run the FC you listed in this build with a Racerstar RS30x4 30A 4 in 1 ESC with a built in 5V 3A SBEC. I also want to run a VTX that says its rated for 6-17 volts. Can i power the VTX directly off the battery pads on the ESC? I plan on doing this build with a runcam micro swift 2 and that VTX is supposed to be good. I think this setup will allow for some upgrade-ability in the future. I'm a first time builder in need of severe guidance lol
links for parts:
ESC - https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS30x4-30A-Blheli_S-2-4S-4-in-1-Brushless-ESC-with-5V-3A-SBEC-for-FPV-Racing-p-1119836.html?p=3F201911077692015010&utm_campaign=rb&utm_content=zhangruihua

VTX - https://www.banggood.com/Full-Speed-FSD-TX200-5_8G-48CH-Raceband-25mw200mw-Switchable-Transmitter-for-RunCam-Micro-Swift-p-1193803.html?p=3F201911077692015010&utm_campaign=rb&utm_content=zhangruihua

Whiffles   Oct 19, 2017 

Since your 4-in-1 supports up to 3A there's no real reason to get a VTX that requires more than 5v. You can power everything from the 4-in-1 at 5v. I think the main reason you'd want to go with that other VTX is to piggy back it to the Micro Swift.

mattw213   Jul 28, 2017  

Hey Whiffles!
Awesome build! Been looking at doing my first build I currently have a Wizard but seem to keep upgrading parts so though I'd be best to start from scratch since I have more knowledge about it all now. Would u mind checking out my build list? Any input would be great!

ThatGuyIvory   Jul 25, 2017  

Beautiful, super clean build. I absolutely love the paracord idea and refuse to use anything else now. ;)
I'm currently planning a Martian II build myself as a first racer (a first build as well, figured I'd be better off putting something together myself).
What I'm planning on using is a BG's F3 controller, Matek PDB and 30A BLHeli ESC (I'd like to use 4S in the future as well as 5045 props. Gotta practice that soldering!).
As for the camera I'd use a Runcam Swift 2 with the same VTX. As far as I know I wouldn't need a separate BEC for this config, right?
I also can't figure out how to wire the VTX and camera as I've seen many people do it in different ways.
Should I wire it through the PDB or wire the camera through the VTX? Does it change the amount of possible noise? What do you think?
I'd love your input as I can see you sure know how to put these together. ;)

Whiffles   Jul 25, 2017 

Thank you! Why don't you create a mockup here on RB and I can take a look at your part list.

ThatGuyIvory   Jul 26, 2017 

Good idea! I've put it together, available here: https://rotorbuilds.com/build/5781

GhzGuy   Jul 25, 2017  

Hello there!
May I say that this is an awesome build, and that I can't wait to build something similar to this with the help of your amazing pictures. Anyway, I'm sorry if this question was already answered, but where did you find that piece that took the place of the PDB? I was looking at the Frog Lite as well, but I figured it would just be easier to build in a Martian II due to its size.

Thank you!

Show 2 more comments
Whiffles   Jul 25, 2017 

I'm a huge advocate of 4-in-1 boards, but you'll get people on both sides of the fence. Certainly there is some risk in that you'll need to replace the entire board in the event of a failure, but I've got 6 builds with 4-in-1s and I've yet to have one fail. My flight controllers fail far more often. Personally I think the convenience and build cleanliness is well worth it. No need to protect your ESCs from prop strikes if they're in the stack.

GhzGuy   Jul 25, 2017 

That's good to hear. I first bought parts for a quad (The FPV system had some incompatibilities so now it's an 4S LOS....thing) On the topic of Flight controllers, I'm curious how you feel about these super cheap Omnibus F4's and how they compare to, say, the DYS F4 board. There's quite a jump in price, I'm just curious if you think it's worth it.

Thanks again for your responses.

Whiffles   Jul 25, 2017 

They get the job done, but sometimes they can be a little bit wonky. One of mine was losing its settings for some reason, but it seems to be okay now.

Ietse   Jun 29, 2017  

Hey Whiffles,
just starting with FPV racing and keen to copy your build.
anything you would change now a few months are past?
i allready got my RC Turnigy Evolution now i only need the rest.
like to hear from you!

Whiffles   Jun 30, 2017 

It really depends on your target price. This is still about as cheap as you can go without using junk parts, but if you don't mind spending a bit more you might want to consider 30A ESCs. The Racerstar StarF3S board will do the trick for nearly the same price as the two boards and the regulator board listed here, but you may have issues binding the Turnigy, so I'd look into that. Other than that you can consider a different frame like the Frog Lite 218mm which is pretty nice, but it's a tighter fit. The Runcam Swift is a nice choice if you want to do HD recording, but it's not quite available yet.

Ietse   Jun 30, 2017 

yeah i dont mind spending a bit more. what i would spend on the first is +/- 200 euro without the extra's.
i did get a TGY-iA6c with the evolution. maybe that would help? still a newb out here ;)
the frog looks awesome so perhaps gonne go with that one.

Whiffles   Jun 30, 2017 

Have a look at my Race Frog build. It's a slightly higher end build, but it's much lighter and more rigid.

gammons   May 27, 2017  

@whiffles I'm just getting into the hobby and I decided that this would be my first build. I was looking hard at the Eachine Wizard to start, but I wanted a bit more of a challenge than a pre-packaged kit. I'm proud to say I built this drone and it is just awesome! Thank you so much for the detailed pictures and descriptions. You've made so that even an absolute beginner can replicate the build easily.

Here's a photo, if you look closely you'll notice that my soldering and wiring skills are absolutely terrible. But, I think this is a great starter build if you're patient and careful!

Whiffles   May 27, 2017 

Wonderful! I'm happy to hear it was useful. It looks great! Maybe you can post your build to the site here so others can see what you've built.

Lol nice try   Apr 22, 2017  

Hi, do you have any recommendations for PIDS on this build? or atleast a guide on how you set the PIDS?

Whiffles   Apr 22, 2017 

I'm still working on the PIDs, but I'm getting close! Here's a great video tutorial on LOS PID tuning,

Whiffles   Mar 27, 2017  

Here's a little footage from the other day. It's not a full pack, but just a short clip,

KWADS_FTW   Apr 04, 2017 

Are you using the racekraft/racekraft clone props, or can the esc's not deal with it?

Whiffles   Apr 04, 2017 

This was with the KingKongs. The 5051s were mainly for show. They'd pull too many amps for this setup.

KWADS_FTW   Apr 04, 2017 

Thought so, thanks

KWADS_FTW   Mar 17, 2017  

what are those racerstars like?

Whiffles   Mar 17, 2017 

They're quite solid for the price. I have an F60 2450kv rig and while that thing is a powerhouse these motors can hold their own. The bearings are fairly consistent between each motor, so QC seems pretty decent. I can't wait to get a better tune to see what these things can really do.

KWADS_FTW   Mar 25, 2017 

Thanks for the reply, do you think that it's worth paying an extra few dollars to get the br2205s(a slightly upgraded version) over the br2205 you have on this quad

Whiffles   Mar 25, 2017 

Worth a shot! You may not be able to discern a difference, but they're only a couple dollars more. If you want to make a difference then you'll probably have to go with the Emax RS2205 2300kv motors.

SIGHKOTIK   Mar 20, 2017  

I like the direction you went with the paracord, looks great! So satisfyingly symmetrical.

Whiffles   Mar 20, 2017 

Thank you! I've seen it done before so I just had to give it a try myself. It does look quite nice, but it requires a lot of patience to get right.

SadisticLeprechaun   Mar 20, 2017  

SOLID inexpensive build. Never thought I would say that. Under 200 without the Mobius HD cam, almost disposable!! Only change I would make is to go 30A on escs (always for future-proofing and ease of mind while slamming throttle). I checked it and it is 20 dollars more.

Whiffles   Mar 20, 2017 

Yeah, I'm impressed. I've been flying it these past few days and it's a lot of fun. What I love about it over my GEP-TX5 is the top mounted battery. I can land anywhere to adjust my PIDs via OSD and pick up right where I left off.

Since this was a budget build 30a ESCs were off the table. I was just trying to get the price as low as possible. The 20a performs just fine for what it is.

MichaelGuest   Mar 18, 2017  

Clean build! I would like to build this just without the FPV stuff for LOS. I was wondering do I need the BEC you used or can the 4 in 1 ESC power the FC because someone said the racerstar ESC doesn't have enough power or something to power FC and should I use a PDB? I am buying the Revo F4 because the one you used is out of stock currently. Thanks!

Show 9 more comments
MichaelGuest   Mar 19, 2017 

Do I need to buy that black and white wire you have hooked up from the lipo leads on esc to FC? Is that servo wire? Also I guess I have to buy 16 AWG 1 meter and 22AWG 1 meter if I decide to go with V2 esc because reg is out of stock.

Whiffles   Mar 19, 2017 

I've got bags and bags of spare wire from building these things, so that black and white is just some grab-bag wire. If you do this long enough you'll have more wire than you know what to do with! If you know anybody personally who builds these they've probably got some wire to fit all your needs. You should be able to use the 22AWG to power the FC.

MichaelGuest   Mar 19, 2017 

Thanks for you help I really appreciate it!

VazUbik   Mar 13, 2017  

nice build, specially with the wire cord.

Whiffles   Mar 13, 2017 

Thank you! I've seen it used several times and just had to give it a try myself. I think it definitely adds some style and hopefully some protection for the wires.

snootux   Mar 10, 2017  

Great budged build and tutorial, thank you!

Whiffles   Mar 10, 2017 

My pleasure! I hope it'll be helpful to some folks.

snootux   Mar 10, 2017 

To me if i can sell my old 5", don't blame me if i will copy it exactly as it is ;) Anyway are you sure that powering that fc with lipo voltage won't overheat it?

Whiffles   Mar 10, 2017 

This is my 3rd build using an Omnibus board and they've been wonderful. While this is a clone it powers up just fine and I see no issues. They're made to handle up to 4S lipos and have a built-in 5v BEC. My favorite FC hands down.

If you're concerned you can always power it with the 5V BEC used to power the camera, but then you'd lose your voltage reading over OSD.

FissionBomb   Feb 17, 2017  

What antenna would you go with on this? Something RP-SMA to go with the Eachine VTX, right or does the VTX come with a dipole?

Does that frame/PDB or Flight controller come with nylon standoffs?

Whiffles   Feb 17, 2017 

The VTX comes with a dipole antenna, but if you want to use an SMA antenna you can use something like this to replace it.

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