'Horny Rooster' 5'' clean build Attempt with Matek VTX ribon cable

By dafunk on Mar 12, 2018

4  519  10

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Was it worth to upgrade from a 140$ Wizard to a 400$ build ?
In short words "no, but like in any hobby, your feelings will beat your brain. I really love my new quad"

Special thanks to Joshua Bardwell for helping me pick the parts through his site and videos
and Stew from UAV futures for attracting me to the quad world

Here is a link to a video in action until I figure out how to embed.

Before you read these Few words on where I did wrong with the parts, please note that I am beginner to intermediate and I don't pretend to 'know it all' ;)
If you disagree please let me know why, I am interested in your opinion.

Frame : I delaminated the 2 carbon bridges joining arms by using a hammer. I think the right way to go is to use a file set to increase the diameter of the holes before using the hammer.
Armattan got it wrong with bolts, make sure you have a extra set of attached outside the frame packaging.


Flight controller : I installed it reverse (the arrow points at the back of the quad) I was forced to do that because of the ribbon that links to the PDB/VTX is too short to be twisted.
The soft mount is not optimal because the cables coming from the ESC to the PDB are touching the soft mount and probably sending vibrations to the FC.


ESCs : I wish I had taken a 4 in 1 Aikon_32 or dlarc engine. Also I am not 100% confident with my approch of insulating the ESCs from the frame. I doubt the red electric tape is enough to prevent shorts with the frame.
For aesthetics, I decided to replace the red/black power wires with Orange at the back and black at the front. The solder joints are bad, maybe because my soldering composition is different from the one they used in factory
I also got the UART wrong to get telemetry. I used UART 1 on the PDB but it seems it is a UART to flash the VTX.


Motors : These are the only thing I got right :) Except that T-Motor got it wrong by including a wrong screw on one of the motors.


Propellers : I had motor weird noises and very bad quad behavior. I tried messing around with PIDs before I understood what was really happenning : I didn't screw the bolts hard enough so at times the motors would spin faster that the props.


FPV camera : the foxeer Predator is not for this frame. It's too small for the titanium cage. You need to add the included washers and find longer screws.


FPV transmitter : it's included with PDB and attached to the Flight controller with a ribbon. It made me think I would get a clean build but the ribbon is in fact a contraint. By choosing the orientation for the PDB, you can no longer choose the orientation of the flight controller. Why ? Because the ribbon is too short to rotate the FC without rotating the PDB.
I initially soldered the capacitor between the XT60 cables and the camera. By plugging the 1st Battery, I shorted the capacitors leads on the carbon frame and it literally exploded in flames. Luckily only the capacitors got damaged but the flame was frightning.
More on this : I think Matek got it wrong and here is how they can improve
1: instead of including 2 identical ribbons, they should include the standard one, + a pre-twisted one that allows rotating the FC by 90 or 180 degrees.
2: Put the leads of the XT60 opposite or on the same side as the antenna out. With the current configuration you are forced to choose an ugly and exposed antenna out or an ugly XT60 going out for the side of the quad. I chose the ugly exposed antenna, but won the integrated XT at the front of the quad just behind the gopro mount.
3: Place a UART Rx near the signal for each motor. That omission makes cabling ugly and complicated (soldering 4 wires on a pad was a nightmare :()



Antenna : at the time of maiden flight, I hadn't receive the stubby yet. I am using the included dipole antenna and it's OK for me. In my opinion the circular polarized antennas are way over rated anyway. I have the Foxeer ones and according to my real life tests, they are only 10% better than dipoles.


R-XSR : I thought I didn't need to wire the smart port since I have an OSD. Wrong, I still need it to control the VTx with the Taranis and perhaps to get data from the ESCs. Also the wires are too long I might shorten them now that I decided where I would fit the receiver and since I have to get telemetry from the BL_Helis


Batteries :Tatoo 75C and R-Line 95C are OK for this build. I tried the ZOP 30C on the Rooster and they cant feed the motors properly and won't live very long anyway.


Here is your checklist in case you wanna go for the XT60 plug between the battery stand and the gopro mount.
1) re-assign the resources in betaflight by swapping motor 1 with 4 and motor 2 with 3
2) Set the yaw to 180 in betaflight
3) Also note that you need to assign the 2 ESCs to 'reverse' using BLHeli_32 configurator (that is if you want all three cables of all your motors to be flat... else just invert any 2 wires feeding the motors)
To my surprise I got this configuration correct from the first attempt.

Overall, I am happy with my design in terms of parts choice and layout, however I kind of messed up some of the execution.



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P0operMcWank   Mar 13, 2018  

I'm horny but not for roosters. Don't take it the wrong way, I like your build. All I meant is that quadcopters dont get me horny nor the rooster animals.

QuantumFPV   Mar 13, 2018 

That's just spectacular.

JC250   Mar 12, 2018  

Are u sure u have to have smartport to control the vtx? Also, did u do the update for the vtx so that it can be switched?

Show 1 more comment
Quark   Mar 13, 2018 

I used the Matek PDB-VTX + F405 combo as well and had trouble getting smart audio VTX control to work. In the end, I had to connect the telemetry pad to one of the soft serial pads on the FC (using a wire) to get smart audio working. This was even after upgrading the firmware on the VTX.

JC250   Mar 13, 2018 

Could u change the vtx settings through the osd? I only have a flysky system, so I don’t have smart audio and I was under the impression that u could change the vtx power and bands with the osd

Quark   Mar 13, 2018 

Yeah, I could changing VTX settings from the OSD after soldering the telemetry wire. I use FrSky.

Jodie Froster   Mar 13, 2018  

Sh!t i$ C@$H!!!! You're being to hard on yourself man, those joints look good to me, I saw 1 or 2 that weren't "great" but they all look legit.

JC250   Mar 12, 2018  

Also, u should definitely get a CP antenna. Foxeer has one for $8

dafunk   Mar 13, 2018 

Hello JC, I have the 8$ foxeer on my Eaching Wizard/EV100. To tell you the truth, according to my real life tests, I found only 10% improvement.

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