2" 2S pepperfiish: light, quiet, peppy

By deks on Mar 03, 2018

9  647  0

I love the lightweight and quiet of my 1S tinyshark, but wanted more power.
I love the power of my 2S babyshark, but hate that micro cmos camera, and wish it was quieter.
So I built a super light 2S. This is essentially the pepperfiish build.


~33g dry. With the 17g 300mah nanotech, it's ~50g AUW. This is 5g more than fishpepper's :-( where's that coming from? candidates:

  • fishpepper 5A 2S ESC is 1.4g (without wires). The Racerstar Star6 is more. (not sure exactly how much more... listed as 2g on BG. with wires, it's 5g.
  • The new BR1103B's are 3.7g each instead of 3.3g for the old style (without prop screw holes), for ~1.4g difference.
  • The Gemfan 2035's are ~3.1g for 4. Maybe the ladybird props are lighter?
  • Maybe the LST S2 cam is a bit heavier? It has a u.fl connector, and a connector for the power lead.

Weight weenie:

  • The pepperfiish bottom plate is only 1mm, so I was actually able to use the tiny phillips screws that came with the Racerstar 1103 motors, 2 per motor.
  • I'm mixing steel and nylon screws for the stack, since I was afraid of nylon breaking. I'll probably move to all nylon soon.
  • I started with the Cyclone Q2035C quad blades, but moved to the Gemfan 2035BN quad blades since they fit tighter so I don't need prop screws.

1S and 2S

This build runs on both 1S and 2S: tinyfish FC works on 1-3S, the ESC works on 1-2S, and the Pololu giving 5V to the cam+vtx supports 1-2S. I was tempted by the Super_S Flytower 3S stack, but it doesn't seem to work on 1S.

It's super peppy on 2S. I also use 1S whoops packs with a JST PH 2.0 to JST RCY adapter and it's also lots of fun: even quieter than my tiny shark since it's so light.


I hate JST-RCY. I got some "nice" connectors from pololu, but they didn't fit my batteries' leads very well (really tight), so I used one from banggood instead with crappy plastic wire. XT30 adds 1-2g, and using a 2S balance connector seems... worse. Bah.

I broke two cam+vtx AIOs on this build by landing upside down on the camera. On both, the camera lens housing came un-epoxied. On one, an SMD cap got knocked off and the camera stopped powering on. On another, the camera (or maybe VTX?) became super flaky (weird colors, going black/white/purple, etc.). This may have been made worse by my printing the cam mount in ninjaflex, which is far too flimsy, and using an LST-S2/Shinehalo camera, which is a bit bigger than the cm/vm275t.

I've designed my own probably-overkill camera mount that I hope will protect the camera better! It's big and bulky and took a while to print, but I'm hoping it'll lead to fewer dead cameras. On thingiverse here. I call it the juggernaut pepperfish. It's not the lighest out, but I don't mind if it lets me crash more.


  • Use a 2S balance connector instead of JST-RCY? Or... JST PH 2.0?
  • Try ladybird props once they get here.



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